Cherigan was a Roaring Twenties French brand relaunched in 2021 with its iconic Cherigan Fleurs de Tabac revisited and some new creations including Cherigan The Purple Bar – Roaring Twenties artwork ©Pixabay, Cherigan bottles ©Cherigan, montage and collage ©Emmanuelle Varron.
In recent years, dormant “lost” French brands were brought back to life thanks to perfume-loving investors wishing to restore their luster. Among themJacques Fath, Jovoy, Houbigant, Le Galion, Lubin, Oriza L. Legrand, Teo Cabanel, Maison Violet and many more. This trend continues as Cherigan, created in 1929, is now having a second life, thanks to Luc Gabriel, founder of The Different Company, who discovered its existence in 2016 in perfumery archives. He quickly found artworks, bottles and got interested in the fragrances compositions that made Paris VIPs vibrate and thronging to 120 avenue des Champs-Elysées, where the boutique was located. Among Cherigan’s flagship creations were Fleurs de Tabac, Mascarade, Chance (long before Chanel!), Bleu Impérial, Parisienne, Jupons and La Habana Cuba (Cherigan had also a shop in Havana, at the time when the city was known for glamour and unforgettable parties before the revolution in 1959).
Luc Gabriel, Cherigan owner and Co-Founder of The Different Company – ©Cherigan.
Cherigan whose name is said to be inspired by “chéri” (darling in French) was relaunched in “avant-première” at Fiorenza Pitti Fragranze event last October (and noticed by Editor colleague Ermano Picco). Cherigan was officially shown to the press a few weeks ago at the beautiful Le Meurice hotel. The brand offers seven fragrances, all extraits, including a reissue of Cherigan Fleurs de Tabac, and six others newly created, inspired by the late 1920s. The bottles come in two sizes: one in 100 ml, with a bottom lacquer layer of distinct color for each fragrance; the other in 15 ml, in a “Touch” travel version, with a drop system coming from the cap which allows the perfume to be applied directly to the skin ( this is my new preferred way to apply perfume when I travel). When Luc Gabriel was asked who the perfumers behind the bottles were, he did not wish to name them, simply telling that there were five. Too bad, as their work definitely deserved a recognition that is now usual.
Seven fragrances, one revisited and six new ones, are part of the 2021 Cherigan revival – ©Cherigan.
“Iris” Coffee is a nod to the famous beverage invented in the 1930s by Irish pub owner Joseph Sheridan : the passengers on transatlantic seaplane flights could warm up after their trip with an invigorating and hot beverage. Iris(h) is at the center of this floral fragrance, both creamy and suave. Notes: Italian bergamot, Egyptian jasmine, Guatemalan cardamom, Florentine iris, Venezuelan tonka bean, coffee, musk.
Edo Park is a tribute to Japan in the 1920s which, at the time, inspired many artists including painters, writers… and perfumers. Osmanthus, the symbolic flower of Asia, is associated with woods, for a perfume that is liquid zen. Notes: Italian bergamot, Italian citrus, Siberian pine, osmanthus, freesia, amber woods, Virginian cedar.
Or des Iles is inspired by Paul Gauguin’s paintings, the famous colorful and exotic “Tropiques”, where the sea rubs shoulders with a sumptuous but still mysterious nature. Cherigan Or des Îles is also a tribute to the famous Josephine Baker wild dance, liberated and sensual. A generous and colorful fragrance, both fruity and delicious. Notes: Italian citrus, Argentine lime, Italian bergamot, jasmine, Madagascar ylang-ylang, rose, vanilla, musk.
Adhara Oud makes the link between incense and oud, here interpreted like the Kodo ceremony and Middle East rituals. Its leathery rose-oud accord has mysterious and intoxicating accents. Notes: Italian citrus, Moroccan rose absolute, Egyptian geranium, leather notes, saffron, oud accord, Clearwood® patchouli.
Lovers in Pink is a tribute to Marc Chagall’s painting that shares the same name, inspired by his wife – and muse – Bella. It is a fragrance that sparkles, at the same time fruity, floral and woody, full of color and joy. Notes: Burgundy blackcurrant bud, Madagascar ginger, Calabrian citrus, Egyptian jasmine, Turkish rose, peony accord, cedarwood, fir balsam, musk.
1929 Cherigan Fleurs de Tabac held by a smoker vs the 2021 version – Women smokers picture via Cherigan, both Cherigan Fleurs de Tabac bottles ©Cherigan, collage ©Emmanuelle Varron.
Cherigan Fleurs de Tabac is the only perfume out of the seven to have already existed (Luc Gabriel is working on a new version of Cherigan Bleu Impérial). Cherigan Fleurs de Tabac is the brand’s best known fragrance (it even inspired author M.J. Rose for its “Seduction” novel), and was created just after Caron Tabac Blond and before Molinard Habanita, two of the most legendary tobacco perfumes. It took nearly three years to make it as faithful as possible to the original fragrance: the1929 Cherigan Fleurs de Tabac went through the chromatograph, a tool frequently used to detect the composition of a perfume, allowing the ingredients to be identified. Then, the original composition was restored to comply with IFRA regulations (some raw materials of the time are not authorized anymore or need to be drastically cut down). Fleurs de Tabac opens both fresh and powdery, bergamot and irone (a molecule that is a rhizome of iris) to the fore, giving it a vintage vibe. This impression is reinforced by the Damask rose which unfolds subtly on the skin and by a luminous jasmine which gives it a carnal floral facet. Cherigan Fleurs de Tabac increases in temperature through the use of cedar and sandalwood, the latter showing much more its woody side than creamy. A hint of vetiver weaves in and out on my skin. As the minutes go by, Cherigan Fleurs de Tabac rounds off with labdanum, its amber glow is almost makes me dizzy with pleasure. The spirit of the Roaring Twenties can be smelled through the powdery rose-irone-musk accord playing slowly over time before the pipe tobacco (like my dear Amsterdamer!) melds with benzoin and tonka bean for an irresistible balmy-sweet duo.
Cherigan Fleurs de Tabac will appeal to lovers of vintage perfumes with its delicate powdery and floral notes, but its modern tobacco accord will find fans with all fragrance aficionados, With a chic and very Parisian sensuality, Cherigan Fleurs de Tabac plays with the codes of nostalgia without being outdated. It has its place in any 21st century olfactory wardrobe with its sophistication and quality composition.
Cherigan The Purple Bar inspiration was Anaïs Nin’s and Henry Miller’s romance – Anaïs Nin and Henry Miller pictures ©DR, Cherigan The Purple Bar bottle ©Cherigan, montage ©Emmanuelle Varron.
When Luc Gabriel introduced us to the Cherigan fragrances, I immediately fell in love with Cherigan The Purple Bar which celebrates the 1920s Parisian nightlife, when artists met in Montmartre and Montparnasse bars, sharing their work, drawing inspiration from each other… and in some cases falling in love with each other. The Purple Bar was inspired by the romance between Anaïs Nin and Henry Miller.
Cherigan The Purple Bar has a thunderous opening, combining spices (cinnamon and clove) with davana, which lends aromatic fruitiness. WHOOSH! I am caught in a whirlwind as labdanum dances with amber raising the temperature a notch, and is accompanied by a woody patchouli… forming an ultra-sensual chypre. Like Cherigan Fleurs de Tabac, The Purple Bar plays a balmy-sweet duet, here with benzoin combined with vanilla. I imagine myself in the basement of a jazz club, with a big band ringing out the brass, and a dance floor crowded with couples dancing the Charleston mingle with the frenzied rhythm of the music. Imagine a couple seated away from it all isolated and out of sight: Anaïs Nin and Henry Miller are face to face, their souls joined to each other. Anaïs observes with amusement the awkward choreographies of some young women dressed by a certain Gabrielle Chanel. Swirls of Cherigan The Purple Bar arouse their nostrils and their senses. Anais turns to Henry. They do not speak since they tell each other everything through their eyes as they look at each other, breathe each other… then their hands touch. They get up, embrace, then quickly go up the steps of the jazz club, leaving behind them a fragrant trail of spices and amber.The night has just begun…
Cherigan The Purple Bar’s olfactory universe is close to the fragrances that I have loved for a long time, for example Estée Lauder Cinnabar or Karl Lagarfeld KL which surrounded me as a child. Cinnamon, clove, benzoin and davana are raw materials that attract me like a magnet. Cherigan The Purple Bar is a perfume that projects both sensuality and character, without compromise.
Disclaimer: “Merci beaucoup” to Cherigan for The Fleurs de Tabac 15 ml bottle and The Purple Bar sample provided for this review (I bought the latter 15 ml version a few weeks ago for my birthday). The opinions expressed are my own.
Emmanuelle Varron, Senior Editor
Cherigan The Purple Bar 100 ml bottle and Cherigan Fleurs de Tabac 15 ml “The Touch” bottle – ©Cherigan, montage ©Emmanuelle Varron.
Thanks to Cherigan, two registered readers in USA, UK and EU can win whether a 100 ml bottle of The Purple Bar or a 15 ml “The Touch” bottle of Fleurs de Tabac. To be eligible, please choose which of the fragrance you would like to win, leave a comment on what you feel about Emmanuelle’s reviews and where you live. Do you enjoy the vintage Maisons revivals? Draw closes 05/21/2022.
We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like CaFleureBon and use our blog feed… or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.
This content was originally published here.